The Breakfast of Champions Rack

You may look up at this Cereal Buttress route and think you have finally found what you are looking for: a 5.10 sport route in North Carolina. But, take a good look, because a little gear on this fun face climb could mean the difference in a laughable whip and a painful hike out.

The route begins at Frosted Flake, a Rumbling Bald classic, but ventures up and right instead of following the hand crack. You will be rewarded by fun, crimpy face holds, and that NC rarity- shiny bolts. But, buyer beware, as clipping the second bolt is often considered the crux. If you blow this move and have only clipped the first bolt, you will swing nastily into a leg-gnawing, jagged crack/ flake.

To make this fun route safer, practice your double rope skills and bring a few pieces of gear. By plugging the left rope into some gear up and left on Frosted Flake, you will ensure that a whip before clipping the second bolt will provide you with a clean fall.
Breakfast of Champions Rack
(don't read this if you are a NC hard (wo)man who insists on a proper onsight....)

2 Skinny Ropes like the Sterling Fusion Ion 9.5 plus a twin rope
#3 BD Camelot
#1 BD Camelot
#.75 BD Camelot
2 long slings
7 Quickdraws
Belay Device
2 Locking Biners
Good Edging Climbing Shoes



Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com


Looking Glass Outfitters is a full service gear shop specializing in hiking, climbing and camping equipment located at the entrance to Pisgah National Forest and around the corner from Hendersonville, Brevard & Asheville.
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com

Early Winter Trailrunning

The temps have been all over the place in the last few weeks, but there is no question that Brevard foliage is now on the ground. Still, as I have headed out trailrunning, I have been reminded how much the views change on many of my favorite trails once the leaves drop. Ridgeline trails like Mine Mountain, North Slope and Coontree Gap now offer great views of multiple ridgelines that were previously obscured by summer's lushness.

As the cooler weather sets in, we have some great trail running and hiking pieces like softshell gloves, fleece pants, wool socks and lightweight jackets that will keep you comfortable in Pisgah National Forest and Dupont State Forest over the next few months. Come on in and say hello before you hit the trail and check out the colorful hats as well!



Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com

Last Bits of Fall

While Brevard and Pisgah Forest are looking very wintry in the last couple of weeks, Chimney Rock Gorge is still showing the last bits of fall's splendor. We have headed out to Rumbling Bald the last two Saturdays and enjoyed fantastic weather. Last Saturday, a crew of Brevard locals headed to RB after a leisurely morning and an obligatory stop at the gear shop. By the time we arrived at the relatively new parking lot, the ranger let us know we were the lucky recipients of the last parking spot!

This past Saturday, CCC president Anthony Love set his alarm early and headed to RB to offer climbers a shuttle to and from the Lake Lure visitor center. This was immensely appreciated by new and old Rumbling Bald climbers, as no doubt, far fewer cars were turned away due to lack of parking. Many thanks to Anthony and crew for offering this service! Hopefully we will all become diligent at carpooling when we head to this incredible winter climbing destination!

Last week, I climbed with the Eilands on a quest for quantity in the Screamweaver area. We were pretty shocked to see next to no climbers as we headed up Zydygo, Finishing School Blues and its irritating cousin on the left, Black Planet, Static Klingon, Boldfingers and Screamweaver. There is no lack of quality in these routes!

This past Saturday, Phil and I made it out a bit earlier and started at the popular Cereal Buttress. We headed up both pitches of Fruit Loops so Phil could snap some shots of Tom Caldwell on Shreaded Wheat (see below.) It's possible my fingers are the perfect size for this crack, so it is always a blast for me to climb. After hopping on Breakfast of Champions, we headed back to the Screamweaver area, where the roped climbs are less crowded, although the war cries of boulderers continually waft through.

I had to settle something with Static Klingon and give more of a try at Boldfingers. It could be a while before I want to lead that one, but it sure is classic! We headed out as the sun set and the parking lot quickly emptied. Head to Chimney Rock Gorge soon if you want to catch a little more of leaf season. It will be gone quickly!


Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com

Halloween Sandstone

We headed to the RRG this past weekend again for a bit of a Halloween extravaganza. Jess was in the area for work with Mountain Khakis, which left Phil and the dogs convincing the Joneses to join us. This meant 3 people and 4 dogs packed up and did the 5+ hour slog to Slade in less than ideal conditions. Let's just say that by the end of the weekend, we unanimously decided it was time to change Vinca's diet and purchase a rocket box before our next joint trip.

Still, two days of sandstone climbing in perfect weather made it worthwhile. A dash of Lycra and some stellar wigs made certain climbs quite memorable. Jess briefly dressed up as a Kittler, before reducing her costume to just "Kitty," since Phil had a hard time looking at the mustache/ cat ears combo.

Phil did a great job of onsighting Rebar (in his Huber costume) and redpointing The Return of Chris Snyder. Jon casually sent Smoothie Nut, while Carly continued moving up the ranks by leading Sunny the Boxer next to Lucky Duck Soup. Jess also sent the R.o.C.S. and onsighted Riptide Ride. Fun times, although most of the locals probably hated us this weekend thanks to our high ratio of climbers to dogs. We did try hard to be respectful of the area, having heard assorted stories of recent climbers not doing so.

It is clear that The Red has become a truly international destination, since every area we have climbed at recently has had multiple parties from other countries. Now that it is getting chilly, we are likely to hunker down and stay close to home. It is the perfect season for NC climbing now- so come on down!

If you really want to see all the pics- which means a lot of Lycra, click the video below.


Climb Globally, Shop Locally

Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com

Southeastern Sandstone Climbing

Sometimes it is difficult to pry yourself away from southeastern rock climbing because it offers so many stellar styles of climbing. We just finished 8 solid days of climbing in some of the best weather we can remember. Funny enough, when we got home, exhausted and in dire need of several rest days, it began raining hard! Check out some of the pics from the NRG. What's not to love about climbing sandstone at the New River Gorge?

Jay Young & Jessica Hoffmann on Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam - Beauty Mtn

Joe DiSciullo on Return to Power - Lower Meadow

Phil gets into the business on Trojans - Lower Meadow




Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com

Rest Day a la Kaymoor Mine

After 3 days at the Red and one day climbing near the Meadow, our forearms were pretty well annihilated. So, despite the ridiculously nice weather, we took a day off from climbing. What is there to do in Fayetteville when resting your forearms? Well, plenty.

We had a wonderfully lazy morning, complete with coffee o'plenty and a little lounging by Laurel Creek, then headed to check out the Kaymoor Mine. I had never been, and the contrast between the ruins of a now defunct mine, built in 1899, and the natural splendor of the gorge in fall was striking. It is one thing to hear about coal mines, yet another thing altogether different to visit a closed mine, and envision the lives, blood, sweat, and natural resources that were once spent around the corner from many of our favorite climbs.

A visit to the mine is also a good way to get a quick cardio burn by scaling the several hundred stairs on your way out. Afterwards, we scarfed down delicacies at the Secret Sandwich Society and made the imperative cruise through Waterstone. Hopefully tomorrow we will be back to sending!


Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters 69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com

A Little FA Taste

Since we got to the NRG in time to climb on my birthday, our friend Jay gave me a special birthday present. He took us to a bit of a secret crag off the Meadow River and let me have at a climb he had been eying. He dutifully bolted the route, scrubbed off moss and dirt and marked some of the key holds while Phil and I warmed up on other climbs, then allowed me the First Ascent. What a friend! After Phil, Jay and I (finally) sent it, we dubbed it a 5.11a and called it Final Bender, in honor of the crag name. It is super fun and heads up an arete before turning steep for a juggy pumpy finish. Have fun on it, if you can find it!


Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com