You may look up at this Cereal Buttress route and think you have finally found what you are looking for: a 5.10 sport route in North Carolina. But, take a good look, because a little gear on this fun face climb could mean the difference in a laughable whip and a painful hike out.
The route begins at Frosted Flake, a Rumbling Bald classic, but ventures up and right instead of following the hand crack. You will be rewarded by fun, crimpy face holds, and that NC rarity- shiny bolts. But, buyer beware, as clipping the second bolt is often considered the crux. If you blow this move and have only clipped the first bolt, you will swing nastily into a leg-gnawing, jagged crack/ flake.
To make this fun route safer, practice your double rope skills and bring a few pieces of gear. By plugging the left rope into some gear up and left on Frosted Flake, you will ensure that a whip before clipping the second bolt will provide you with a clean fall.
Breakfast of Champions Rack
(don't read this if you are a NC hard (wo)man who insists on a proper onsight....)
2 Skinny Ropes like the Sterling Fusion Ion 9.5 plus a twin rope
#3 BD Camelot
#1 BD Camelot
#.75 BD Camelot
2 long slings
7 Quickdraws
Belay Device
2 Locking Biners
Good Edging Climbing Shoes
Climb Globally, Shop Locally
Looking Glass Outfitters
69 Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
828.884.5854
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com
Looking Glass Outfitters is a full service gear shop specializing in hiking, climbing and camping equipment located at the entrance to Pisgah National Forest and around the corner from Hendersonville, Brevard & Asheville.
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com
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