Gear Review: The Five Ten Anasazi Velcro

My beloved pair of Five Ten Anasazis were my third pair of shoes in my still-young climbing career. After realizing that my first pair- some Five Ten Sapphires-(similar to today's Five Ten Spire) were actually not great once the climbing got technical and the holds got tiny, and recognizing that my Five Ten Moccasyms had been sized so tight as to best be suited for short gym climbing only, I made the leap into the more technical climbing shoe realm and bought a pair of Anasazis. So, as you can see, I am a big fan of 5.10 climbing shoes and their famously sticky Stealth Rubber, but honestly, from day one, these shoes have been incredible.

From tenuous face climbs at Rumbling Bald like Test Pilots, to Looking Glass' incredible Cornflake Crack, these shoes have suited me well in nearly every situation. Although my Sapphires are still great for long routes and crack climbs, and the easy slipper style of the Moccasym is perfect for the gym, the Anasazi performs outstandingly when you need a truly technical shoe. The velcro makes them easy to deal with when multipitching. Until I beat this pair to a pulp, the classic Anasazi continues to fit me great and I will keep resoling them. By the way, my last resole was done by Rock and Resole in Boulder, Colorado, and I have been very happy with their work.

Attached pictures are of Redtail at City of Rocks, Idaho. Don't miss this stellar sport climb if you head to the City! But, watch your rope ends! This long route is best climbed with a 70 meter rope.

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